Peter's Blog, Wolfgang Puck Pizza Bar
Peter Reinhart

Last week I took a local reporter, Michael Solender, on a local mini-Pizza Quest for a story he is writing for a local magazine. We were accompanied by photographer Tonya Russ Price. We picked four local places to visit, all of which I consider among Charlotte's best: Wolfgang Puck Pizza Bar; Luisa's Brick Oven Pizza; Mellow Mushroom; and Pure Pizza (where I serve as "consulting partner"). Michael's article, which I'm sure will be great and very different from my account, won't come out till late April and I'll post the link when it does, but I wanted to post a few comments of my own here, since I found the adventure very rewarding for a number of reasons that I'll explain below.

Why Wolfgang Puck chose Charlotte as the launching pad for his new WP Pizza Bar concept, which will roll out nationwide over the next few years, I'll never know, but I'm thrilled. For some reason he likes Charlotte. His Executive Chef over all the locations, Scott Wallen, was the chef for a number of years just around the corner at Upstream, one of our best seafood restaurants, so maybe that had something to do with it.  I've always loved Wolfgang's food -- he truly is one of the great flavorists of our time, as well as a shrewd and driven businessman. When I lived in San Francisco my favorite restaurant  was Postrio, which was the SF version of Spago, and I think it's safe to say that Puck's flavor palate has influenced nearly every American chef of the past thirty-five years. He has also presided over a line of disappointing frozen pizzas and has branded himself on the shopping networks across a lot of so-so products, which I think has contributed to a diluting of his eponymous brand value, but that's irrelevant at the moment because his restaurant food still sizzles. I'm thrilled that his first WP Pizza Bar exists only one mile from my house.  I know that it has nothing to do with me; Wolfgang and I have met only a few times and I doubt he even knows who I am. However, since I don't believe in coincidences (but I do believe in irony), I would say that it is apt and appropriate that he chose my 'hood to be the flagship location for this venture. I like this restaurant very much and I really enjoy the whole menu, from apps to entrees, as well as the pizzas. Chef Wallen (Scott) took me through his process for the pizzas, including a well thought out dough that uses an aged preferment (about one week old before it gets used), plus an overnight biga, plus an overnight cold fermentation for the dough balls, resulting in a surprisingly soft dough, especially considering that the flour is high gluten of about 14% protein. The first time I had their pizza I thought they were using Italian tipo -00- flour because the texture was so soft. Scott told me it took many months of trial and error in their California test kitchen to achieve this dough. It also contains a little olive oil which, I'm sure, contributes to the softness but, regardless, they pulled it off; an original one-of-a-kind dough topped, naturally, with top of the line ingredients including oven slow roasted tomatoes, organic tomato sauce (the same Bianco DiNapoli tomatoes we use at Pure Pizza -- dang, I thought we were the only ones around here who knew about those!), various imported and domestic cheeses, and the full array of Wolfgang's signature bold flavors, including his famous smoked salmon pizza, the one that was first made famous at Spago, as well as braised short rib, roasted wild mushroom, and barbecue chicken concepts, among the 18 pizzas on the menu. As the pizzas emerge from the dual-heat WoodStone oven, the cornicione is brushed with a tasty garlic oil and then the pies are garnished with various fresh herbs or greens.

Being a crust guy, I spent most of my time talking with Scott about their fermentation method; the idea of holding onto a pate fermentee' (aka pre-fermented dough) for a whole week or more is a very unique technique. I hadn't heard of anyone else doing this. And then, combining it with another preferment, a biga, continues to add layers of flavor as they build toward the final dough.
So here's the thing: the pizzas at WP Pizza Bar are beautiful and look amazingly similar to the ones we make at Pure Pizza. The main difference is the texture of the crust.

Whose is better? It depends on whether you like it soft (Pizza Bar) or al dente (Pure). The good news is that for a city that, ten months ago, had no artisan pizzerias at all, we suddenly have two, both of which are very very good. The business models are also very different; WP Pizza Bar is a beautiful, upscale bistro with a full menu that includes great steaks, fish, various pastas, a full bar, inventive sides and specials (I'm a fan of sauteed spinach with roasted garlic and those oven dry-roasted tomatoes), whereas Pure Pizza exists in the Seventh Street Public Market, a kiosk restaurant in an alt-style food court.

I'll write more about Pure in my next post (after we host our first private beer dinner, which happens tonight), as well as tell you about my stops at Luisa's (my favorite local New York-style Neapolitan pizzeria), and Mellow Mushroom, a brilliant and hugely successful concept pizzeria chain that makes what I consider to be some of the best "Americana" pizza around (and having 36-48 draft beer taps at every location doesn't hurt either).

Bottom-line on WP Pizza Bar: it may take a few years to cover the country and work out all the remaining first year tweaks but I think this is going to eventually be Wolfgang Puck's most financially successful multi-unit concept, mainly because both the food and the pizzas are excellent, and the restaurant design, as always with Wolfgang, is beautiful. He is the Godfather of the gourmet, "California" pizza, and he is now building a series of shrines to celebrate his contribution to the pizza lexicon. Thanks to Wolf and Scott Wallen for kicking it all off right around the corner from my house. The irony is on me!

I'd  love to hear from any of you who may have also been to the WP Pizza Bar. There is now one in Greensboro, NC and I believe another will soon open, perhaps in Raleigh, and also out west. By this time next year there should be three more and then, watch out, they will probably hit the popcorn stage soon after. But the key to why it works, the star attraction, are the pizzas. Who knows, maybe Charlotte will become a pizza town after all….

 
Broccoli Pepperoni
Brad English

Broccoli Pepperoni?  Broccoli and pepperoni don't go together in a sentence very often. The pepperoni pizza is, by all accounts, the most popular pizza here in the USA. Picture your average 10 year old boy walking into his local pizza shop.  "Can I have a medium pepperoni pizza, uhmm…also with roasted broccoli?!!"  That just isn't going to happen.  Maybe I'm wrong though.

 

 

I love broccoli.  Even my daughter loves broccoli and that kid is like a cat - she's finicky!  If you've read my recipe musings you'll already know that Owen (my son) likes broccoli.  He's like Mikey; "He eats everything!"  I was making some broccoli a while back and, after cutting the branches off the stocks, I noticed the cross section of the stalk and it looked moist and interesting for some reason. So, I sliced a piece off and ate it.  It was good.  I thought, why do we cut off the top of the broccoli, the florets, and just throw all of this away?  Maybe the collective "we" doesn't, but I had never really been served broccoli trunk before.

So, I started chopping more of the stalk and using it in salads, or even thicker chunks when steaming broccoli for dinner, and life was good.  One day when I was slicing some stalk I noticed the shape of the little discs.  For some reason I thought of pizza topping and then, aha, broccoli pepperoni!  I know this may not be something I should be sharing in public, it could get me locked up.  But, I trust you all to keep this part of the story to yourselves.

I am still working on the recipe, but thought I would share it now, even while still in development, because I think it's an interesting concept.  A big part of what we are searching for here on Pizza Quest is not just that perfect pizza, or perfect final product, but what is interesting; what is the process; who are the driven people and what drives them to create amazing food -- how did they get here?  I know this aha moment is just a small example of that quest, but it is a part of the process, at least for me, of making our lives interesting, enriched, and fun. In other words, broccoli pepperoni is me, in my driven state.

I was also thinking that I'd like to extend this concept into zucchini, or maybe even try a breaded eggplant "pepperoni."  The real quest here, as it often is, is my search for flavor.

By the way, my daughter gave this pizza two thumbs up!

 

Broccoli Pepperoni

- 3-4 Large Broccoli Stalks

- Olive Oil *Approx. 1 - 2 Tablespoons

- Soy Sauce *Approx. 1/2 - 1 Tablespoon

- Rice Wine Vinegar  *Approx. 1/2 Tablespoon

- Paprika *Approx. 1 1/2 tablespoons

- Garlic Powder *Approx 1/2 Tablespoon

- Ground Fennel Seed *Approx 1/2 Tablespoon

- Ground Red Pepper Flakes *Approx 1/2 Tablespoon

- Ground Mustard Seed *Approx 1/2 Tablespoon

- A little Cayenne Pepper

- Ground Black Pepper

- Salt

 

*Note:  I have been making this by "eye" and "feel."   These amounts are approximate.  Start with less and add more of each as needed, per your taste.  Mix it all together and taste one piece.  Adjust and taste again until you have it where you like it.  You can find all sorts of homemade pepperoni recipes online that can guide you if you want/need exact spice measurements.  As I play with this, I'll updated the recipe here. Please do the same if you have any suggested tweaks.

 

To do:

Cut the broccoli heads off the stalks.  Trim the stalks as needed.  Cut off the bottom edge.

Slice broccoli into 1/8" slices.

*You don't have to be precise because varying the slices gives a variety of textures after they are cooked.  The slightly thicker slices are more moist, while the thinner ones get a little crispier and curl up more.

Place slices in a bowl and add the ingredients.  I did so to taste.  I've added approximate amounts above, but think this can be done by adding what you think feels right and then tasting and adjusting.

I used the olive oil, soy and rice wine vinegar to form the spices into a marinade and add flavor.  In a previous version I used a brewed my own fish sauce, which is basically equal parts commercial fish sauce, vinegar, water and sugar, boiled.  I loved the flavor that brought, but my wife thought it was a little fishy.  Try that if you like the fish sauce flavor instead of the soy/vinegar combo which turned out quite nice as well.

 

Pre-Bake:

Pre-heat your oven to 350 Degrees.

Lay your marinaded broccoli "pepperoni" slices out on a cookie sheet in a single layer. This is a little work because they will all be stuck together in the bowl!

Place into the oven for about 8-10 minutes.  Check, and when they are softening and starting to curl, or some of the thinner slices are starting to brown on the edges, pull it out and turn the slices over with a  pair of tongs.  Place the pan back into the oven and check the pieces in about 5 minutes.  You don't need to cook them all the way.  If using on pizza they will cook another 6-10 minutes.  The pre-baking is just to get them started.

You can cook these ahead of time and keep them in the refrigerator for later use.  They can even be thrown on a sandwich as a topping to add a little spice and flavor.

Check back here, as I'll update this post with more details on my vegetables pepperoni quest!

 

Enjoy!

 

 

 

 
Peter's Blog, Upcoming Event, March 2nd
Peter Reinhart

Hi Everyone,
In light of our recent webisode posting about the Basta/Bruery Pizza/Beer Challenge, I think this announcement is very timely. Sadly, it will be more useful to those of you who live near Charlotte, NC so, if you don't, but have friends or family in this area, please feel to tell them about it.

On Saturday, March 2nd we will be hosting a "Farm to Fork" Pizza/Beer Pairing Dinner at the new restaurant where I am a consulting partner, Pure Pizza, located at 224 7th St, in Charlotte (inside the 7th Street Public Market).

Our pizza team has created two totally original pizzas, both made with dough using spent grain from the brewery, to match with a variety of beers from one Charlotte's newest, hottest micro-breweries, Triple C Brewery. The dinner will also include a farm to table salad (and the farmers themselves will be there to talk about their organic produce) and dessert -- a specially created panna cotta (and did I mention, Triple C's amazing beers? Yes, I know I did but we're pretty excited about the pairings, very reminiscent of what we will be showing you in the upcoming webisodes).

It all starts at 7 PM and will also include live music and lots of fun. In other words, a one of a kind pizza party! All for $40.

For more details and to reserve a place (tickets are going fast) go to: http//purepizza.eventbrite.com .   You can also find more info at our Facebook page: www.facebook.com/PurePizza (we'd love it if you'd "like" it). Anyway, this is our first such event (we've only been open for 9 months) so I wanted to get out the word via this growing Pizza Quest community (I also posted this on the Craftsy.com/pizza website -- we're up to 16,500 subscribers which, I'm sure, include many of you). I'll keep you posted in the future when I hear of similar fun pizza events. Hope you or your friends can make it!  I'll take photos and report back after the event.

 
The Basta/Bruery Pairing Dinner Prep
Peter Reinhart

We are moving now closer to the showdown between Kelly Whitaker, Al Henkin, and me on pizza versus Patrick Rue on beer.  It all began at, and was inspired by, this dinner at Basta - Wood Fired Eatery and Pizzeria, where Kelly and Al came up with a wonderful tasting menu inspired by some of the beers from Orange County artisan brewery, The Bruery.  In this segment you will see Al and Kelly briefing their serving staff on the courses and the beers, including Patrick's explanation of his IPL (Imperial Pale Lager as opposed to an India Pale Ale). There was a wonderful Farro Salad with Humboldt Fog Goat Cheese (one of my all time favorites), as well as Pan Roasted Divers Scallops, Quail, Rack of Lamb, and a thoughtfully selected cheese course (see Al's mini-course on cheese and beer pairings in an earlier webisode). Most interesting of all is that Al and Kelly chose to go with a French theme rather than staying in their usual wheelhouse, Italian. Of course, they both paid their dues for years working in fine French dining, so this was but a mere dip into their previous treasure chest of training and a chance to flex their wings.

This all leads to our next webisode, coming soon, when we all sit down and come up with the Signature Pizza/Beer Challenge. But let's not get ahead of ourselves. Enjoy this one first, an appetizer, so to speak, of things to come.

 
Are You Ready to Turn Pro? Part 5
John Arena

Note from Peter: If you'd like to read all five of John's columns on this subject you can go to the Guest Columns section instead of scrolling down the home page. There, you will find them all in one place. Either way, please do read them; it could make all the difference between success and failure. And even if you're not thinking of opening a place, this is great, universal wisdom, applicable in any venture.

Well, so far we have explored some of the demands of opening a pizzeria so now it is time to ask yourself something that could change your life.  Here is the easy part. What type of pizzeria do you want to open? Everyone has a vision of their ideal place, so I bet the answer popped into your mind immediately.  Now it gets tough. Here is the big question: Why? Why do you want to build that particular type of pizzeria?

You see, in the modern era, something very interesting has happened, something that has never occurred in the world of pizza before: choice. In the not too distant “old days” virtually every factor that shaped one’s pizzeria was predetermined by their environment. Equipment? The Neapolitans made wood oven pizza because they had 2,000 years of experience building those ovens. Service style?  Pizza by the slice developed in New York because of fast paced foot traffic. Ingredients?  Sausage was the pizza topping of choice in Chicago because they processed a lot of pork in the Windy City. In modern times many of those limitations have been lifted.  You can now make a conscious choice about what you want to serve, how it will be prepared and how you will serve it. That’s good, right? Not exactly, because with freedom comes the responsibility of due diligence.

Here is an example: A few months ago I was contacted by a restaurant group that needed a consultant to develop a deep dish pizza concept. I turned them down and here is why: Their location was in an office park that would require multiple table turns with 80% of sales at lunch time. Deep dish pizza has a long bake time and people tend to eat lighter at lunch. On top of that, they were in a city that is usually hot and humid, which is not the perfect place to eat a cheese and meat laden pie. Why did they choose deep dish for their concept? Because the CEO had visited Chicago and loved that pizza and they reasoned, “We will have the only deep dish pizza in the area.”

Sound familiar? Each of us has had similar thoughts when we find a special place on our personal pizza quest. “Wow! This is amazing. I can bring this pizza to my home town and make a fortune.”  The honest truth is, maybe you can and maybe you can’t. You see, there may be some good reasons why a certain type of pizza isn’t available in your area. Sure, a high traffic urban location with a food savvy population can support many different pizza styles. Tony Gemignani has proven that this is true with his fantastic multi-style pizzeria in San Francisco. Don’t make the mistake of thinking that because you like something it will be successful. It is all about the right fit. If it is in your heart to make a certain type of pizza it is absolutely crucial that you are brutally honest when you evaluate your proposed trading area.

So it all comes down to choice. To be successful you must either choose a certain pizza style because you honestly feel it is right for the location, or, you must choose a location that is right for your style. Sure, passion is important. Having a unique high quality product is important. But those factors alone are not enough to guarantee success. Remember, as you transition from accomplished amateur to pizza professional you must continually evaluate not only what you want to make but also what your guests want to buy. That is the major difference between cooking for your friends and family and staying in business.

In the next segment we will take a look at the things you must consider when shaping your pizza concept.

 
The Baking Steel
Andris Lagsdin

Note from Peter:  We've been writing about this new Baking Steel for a couple of months, so I asked its creator, Andris Lagsdin, to tell us more about it in his own words. I love his inspirational story, one that exemplifies what Pizza Quest is all about, and am thrilled to be able to share it with you now. Enjoy!

Although for my day job, I work for a family-owned manufacturing company, Stoughton Steel, outside the office I'm pretty passionate about food -- pizza in particular.  I've been making pizza's since I started with Todd English at Figs in the early 90's.  It's been a pretty casual obsession of mine over the years, making pies mostly for my family and hosting pizza parties for my friends.  I used to make my pizza's on the back of a metal sheet tray, then switched to a stone for what I thought would help make a better crust.  I brought the steel into the picture just this past year, after reading excerpts of Modernist Cuisine in a Wall Street Journal article.  Steel and pizza -- are you kidding me?  Of course I was intrigued by the idea.  Having more than 15 years experience working in the steel industry and also a strong culinary background, I had been looking for a way to marry the two for quite a long while. And so my journey began.  

The WSJ article stated that the best way to replicate brick oven pizza at home was with a steel plate, so I decided to give it a go.  I found an extra piece of steel in my shop and cleaned it up to take home.  I have to admit that the first steel was a bit of a monstrosity and my wife looked at me like I had two heads when I told her what I planned to do with it.  She insisted she wouldn't subject herself or our two kids to anything I made off of that "hunk of steel."  Well I went for it anyway, made a batch of dough and baked up the pies.  We all marveled at the browning of the crust.  There were no leftovers that night. I knew then that I was on to something.  

After a couple of months of fine-tuning, we decided we were ready to see how other people felt about baking pizza on steel.  Being that our customer base was the construction industry, we needed a

 
Peter's Blog: Are these the Best in America?
Peter Reinhart

Hi Everyone,

I plan to write more about my recent trip through Texas, and we have some new postings to add this week, but my friend Steve Steingard, with whom I've shared many pizzas (and cheese steaks) while growing up together in Philly, just sent me this link and I wanted to share it with you, asap, because it highlights some very spectacular pizzas, both traditional and innovative.  No list is totally exhaustive and all are subject to argumentation, but this one doesn't just stop at 25 or even 50 but lists over 100 of the finest pizzas in America, with great photos.  Enjoy, and feel free to lodge your comments here, both pro and con, especially if you think one of your own "worthies" was omitted. As for me, it gave me a whole new batch of places to add to our never-ending quest. Thanks Grubstreet!

http://newyork.grubstreet.com/2013/02/the-best-pizza-in-america.html

 
News Flash!
Peter Reinhart

Great news. --  the Craftsy mini-pizza course launched yesterday and we already have 2,200 subscribers! To get the free video course, "Perfect Pizza at Home" go to www.craftsy.com/pizza and sign up. Did I mention that it's FREE!!  I just watched the whole series from my hotel room (yes, I'm still in Texas) and I have to say, I'm really pleased with how it turned out. Check it out and let me know what you think.

Now, on to Houston....

 
Spectacular Sous Vide Short Ribs at Basta
Peter Reinhart

In this installment of the Basta series, as we inch closer to the big pizza/beer throw down, Kelly Whitaker takes us through his process for making one of the most amazing meat dishes I've ever had. A few years ago very few people knew of the cooking method called sous vide, which means, "under vacuum." Now, because of high profile chefs like Thomas Keller, as well as exposure on television and recent books like Modernist Cuisine, most foodies have at least heard of it and some are even buying home models of the immersion circulator you will see in this webisode.  What I love is how Kelly adapts this vacuum pressure method and marries it with his traditional wood-fired oven technique to get the best of both worlds, a super tender (like budder) yet still medium rare 48 hour cooked piece of short rib, which is then charred in the oven to create a crisp, caramelized, smokey crust.  Notice also the accompanying side dishes, local greens sauteed in pork belly fat, and a super creamy parsnip puree. Lush, memorable, yet simple food!

At the end of this segment we begin the transition, a tease really, towards the beer and pizza challenge between Kelly, Al Henkin (who appears briefly at the end with the beers), and the fabulous micro-brewery, The Bruery. We've been laying the stage for all of this in previous segments, exploring the cooking philosophy behind Basta's rustic yet explosively flavorful food and beverage pairings. In coming segments we'll bring all the pieces together as the Basta team and I challenge The Bruery to create a new beer inspired by our one-of-a-kind pizza. Onward....

 

 
Peter's Blog, January 21st, 2013
Peter Reinhart

I'm headed out soon for Austin, TX where my teaching tour of Texas begins (see my previous Peter's Blog for dates and cities). Not sure if there are still spaces available, so call the store near you if you want to attend.  In the meantime, till I get back, I wanted to share this e-mail from Pizza Quest follower, David Maxwell, in response to my WFO 4-minute rib eye steak technique. Here's what he sent, another great idea that I can't wait to try:

"By far the best steaks I've ever cooked were  boneless rib eyes we served at Christmas.  Try this method, an oven-based version of sous vide:
1 - Season with salt and pepper.  Place steaks on a cooling rack set into a rimmed cookie sheet.
2 - Place into a 250F degree oven.  Depending on the thickness and starting temp of the steak it will take anywhere from 15 to 40 minutes to bring the internal temperature up to 100.  Use a meat thermometer and don't be afraid to poke into the meat.  It isn't a water balloon - you won't lose a ton of juice even with multiple pokes.  Go in from the side.
3 - Remove from oven and pat dry.
4 - Put steaks on an insanely hot cast iron pan - no oil needed.  Let them sit undisturbed for about a minute, flip and go another minute.
5 - Let them rest for 5 minutes
You should have a steak that's beautifully pink all the way through with a wonderful dark sear.  You shouldn't have any of the tan/gray layer that's so common in home seared or grilled steak.  100 degrees pre-sear should bring you up to the rare side of medium rare.  105 should be enough to satisfy any Red-Phobic types.
It also works for tuna steak."

Thank you, David!  He mentioned sous vide, and his timing is perfect, as we will be posting the next in our Basta websiode series later this week. In this segment, Kelly Whitaker will show us how he makes his famous 48-hour sous vide/oven charred short ribs, one of my all time favorite bites.

Hope to see some of you in Texas. I will try to blog from the road, but no promises -- lots to do in the Lonestar State!


 
On Pizza and Beer
Brad English

Note from Brad:

I was reading Part 4 of John Arena's "Are You Ready to Turn Pro" series on our site and noticed an interesting comment from one of our readers, Kevin Szot.  Well, truth be told, it was interesting in that the commenter owned a micro-brewery in Chile and loves to make pizza!  I checked out his site and realized that he didn't just love making pizza, but had really thought things through, even dedicating a section of his website to gourmet pairings featuring pizza. So, intrigued, I wrote to him.  After trading a few emails with Kevin, he sent us some additional thoughts on pizza and beer, which we are sharing with you below.

Peter and I think this is an interesting piece about two of our favorite subjects, especially in light of the great beer and cheese info contained in the recent Basta webisode we posted.  I am hoping to drag Kevin into another kind of beer and pizza collaboration, where the two of us do some recipe pairings over the internet in the coming months -- maybe even featuring his beers.  Stay tuned and, in the meantime, enjoy this very informative Guest Column.  Thank you Kevin! (Note, Kevin's website and e-address for Szot Microbrewery Chile are:

- www.szot.cl  This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it

 

Introduction

Although we’re in the beer business (we own a microbrewery located near Santiago, Chile), we are also “homebrew” pizza fanatics.  My wife is a bread and cookie baker, so we have a bakery quality oven at home, plus we had an outside “barrel oven” (http://www.szot.cl/hornobarro.html) which we just destroyed to make way for a refractory brick pizza oven (work-in-progress).  Our home kitchen has even been approved by the local health authorities for commercial baking.  There is a bit of overlap between our beer and pizza since, in most of our doughs, we use beer where the recipe would normally call for water.  We also use a small percentage of freshly ground malted barley grains (either pilsen malt or crystal/caramel) in our dough.  We have tried the use of spent grains (leftovers from the beer making process) like some have recommend in the beer press, but these have already had most of their complex sugars, enzymes and flavor removed by the brewing “mash” process. We find it’s much better to use a small quantity of new ground fresh malt and just send the spent grains off to the cows. It’s easy to grind the dry barley malt in a home coffee grinder.  Barley adds a nice touch, plus has enzymes which probably have some effect on breaking down the starches in the wheat during the rise, but you have to be careful – too much barley makes the dough too sticky.  We tend to make our dough on the morning of “pizza night” or even the night before, to allow a nice rise or two.  In Chile we do not have the selection of flours that you have in the States, so we tend to use 50% common white bakers flour and 50% fresh ground whole wheat (no specifications).  We have no qualms about throwing in small quantities of other grains or seeds (sunflower, etc.)

We are inspired by Italian pizza styles, but do not try to replicate them.  We do have locally made cow, goat and sheep cheeses.  There are no local blue-cheeses in Chile, though imported cheeses are easily available in supermarkets where the “gourmet” selection is actually quite good. Chile has a tradition of accompanying food with sauces, one of which is “pebre”.  Similar in concept to Mexican “pico de gallo” this can be made with big chunks of tomato, onion, cilantro, garlic, oil and vinegar (like a salad), or chopped up more finely, or even made almost liquid (like a sauce).  Nice topping, especially cold on top of a hot pizza right-out-of the oven. We start with simple “Margherita” type pizzas, then move up to more flavorful toppings as the night progresses.  “Empanadas” are big in Chile, the local way of making a beef and onion filling for them also makes a nice Chilean-style topping. We invite friends to bring their own special toppings (we give hints, like octopus, wild boar, imported cheeses etc.) and ask them to make their own pizzas (we do the dough and oven work).  That said, our favorite family pizza has a Thai inspired topping made of chicken sauteed with onion, then mixed with a peanut butter sauce cut with olive oil, and ample fresh-cut ginger, a bit of either mozzarella or blue

 
DiNapoli Fire Roasted Tomato Pizza Sauce
Brad English

The hardest part of making a great pizza at home is making and baking a great pizza dough.  I found Peter Reinhart because this otherwise simple task eluded me in my home pizza making endeavors for so long.  I now make what I consider to be a decent dough, or doughs as I keep trying to chase that perfect pizza experience here at home with my family.

The next thing you have to master after you have a good dough is your tomato sauce.  Once again, I credit Peter with my favorite sauce.  His Crushed Tomato Sauce recipe is simple and delicious.  It's perfectly balanced.  You make it cold and let it cook up right on the pizza.   Check out the recipe *HERE if you haven't tried it.  I make it so often, I don't look at the recipe anymore.  I simply add the ingredients by feel - a pinch of this and a couple pinches of that.

 

I met Rob Dinapoli for the first time at the Pizza Expo last year before he became one of our sponsors. I was talking to a friend of his and noticed a can of their Fire-Roasted Tomatoes.  The artwork on the can caught my eye.  I said to him that those would make an interesting pizza sauce.  His friend went on about how he uses it all the time for pastas and I wish I had taken some notes.  When the show was over, Rob gave me his last #10 can to take home and try.

 

I finally got around to trying these out and my hunch was right!  Here's what I came up with for my version of a Fire-Roasted Tomato Sauce.  I give credit to Peter's original Crushed Tomato Sauce that inspired where I wanted to go with this.  I think you will love the results.

 

 

DiNapoli Fire-Roasted Tomato Sauce:

 
2013, Here We Come!
Peter Reinhart

Welcome to 2013! As we start a new year and also begin our third year here on Pizza Quest, I wanted to give you all a quick glimpse of what's coming up.

But first, a hearty thank you to all our contributors, partners, and supporters. This is  especially so for Forno Bravo, who partnered with us from Day One in creating this site and continues supporting us in so many ways. Also, our sponsors, Central Milling, The Fire Within, and DiNapoli Tomato Products, as well as our founding sponsor, Bel Gioioso Cheese.  Also, a special thank you to John Arena, our most frequent Guest Columnist, and to all others who contributed columns.

And, finally, I'd like to thank Brad English and Jeff Michael, who came up with the original idea for Pizza Quest and invited me to join with them in making it happen. Brad, as you already know, is our regular "If I can do it so can you" columnist, and he's come up with some incredible pizza concepts as well as lots of fun journal entries and pictorials about his never-ending quest for the perfect pizza. As Calvin Trillin phrased it, he's "…just a big hungry boy looking for a good meal."  And thanks also to our webisode Director and fellow Quester, David Wilson, and our editor Annette Aryanpour, who make all our webisodes sizzle.

Thank you all and now onward, to a great 2013!

Upcoming: For those in the Texas area, I'll be doing a short tour of seven Central Market Cooking

 
A Pairing of Beer and Cheese at Basta
Peter Reinhart

As our story progresses, we've already introduced you to Kelly Whitaker in the previous two segments and now we meet Alan Henkin, the co-owner (with Kelly) and also the Beverage Director of Basta, in Boulder CO.  In this webisode segment, Alan and Kelly take us through a virtual master class of beer and cheese pairing, as well as showing how it compares to more familiar wine and cheese pairings. In essence, they touch on the major principles of food pairing in general. In these brief six minutes you will go through the same process they and other chefs and beverage directors go through on a daily basis when determining what to match with what.  I love the moment when Alan explains that the Roquefort, "… brings out the fruit in this beer that I wouldn't have found before." Fruit? Who knew?

By the way, the cheese close-ups are luscious -- I wanted cheese so badly after watching this footage again and it brought me back to the day we filmed there. Not many people know this, but before I was a bread baker I was a cheese maker -- I think cheese is the most magical of foods and, like bread, a powerful symbol of transformation. Simple milk turned into so many delicious manifestations! Notice also how Alan, before tasting his beer or wine, sniffs it (I also sniff cheese in the same way).  It has been said that we experience flavor by 80% through aroma and the olfactory senses and only 20% on the tongue.  Many of you probably already know this, but watching Alan savor his beverages in this way reminded me of how much flavor I often leave unexperienced (and thus unappreciated) as I rush through my food. It's like leaving money on the table.

This segment is a terrific stand-alone episode that, for many of us, will elevate our understanding of this creative and gastronomical process but, in addition, it serves as an important appetizer for the segments that will follow over the next few months. As we follow this lesson in beer and cheese pairing it will lead us into the main course, the pizza/beer challenge between the fabulous craft brewery called The Bruery, owned by Patrick Rue, who briefly appears in this segment (he's the one who looks like Brian Wilson of the Beach Boys), and Kelly, Alan, and our Pizza Quest team. It all culminates many months later, in the shadow of The Great American Beer Festival in Denver. It's a long story, and we'll bring it to you in short bites, so, savor this one as a prelude and know that we will be building upon it in the segments still to come.

 

 
Roberta's - Mini Quest Part 2
Brad English

Note: For a recap, scroll down the homepage past the halfway point, to read about Dave's and my visit to Di Faro's, which is Part One of our NYC Mini-Quest:

Dave and I had to force ourselves to stop eating pizza at Di Fara's.  This was no easy task.  You're sitting there in front of what is a "perfect" pizza in a "perfect" place and you have to stop eating so that you can eat more somewhere else.  We had a plan though, so we put the brakes on in order to make this a quest and not just lunch.

We left Brooklyn to get to Brooklyn.  As I mentioned, there was just no getting a cab from Di Fara. We walked around looking for about 20-30 minutes.  So, we jumped back on the train and headed back to Manhattan to grab a train to come back out to Brooklyn to hit Roberta's for our second stop on our mini pizza quest.  Perhaps there should be a Pizza Quest train line put in that better connects some of New York's best pizzerias?  Am I the first to come up with this?  There is one pizza maniac that comes to mind who has made a living making these connections, but more on that later.

It really is too bad we didn't have Peter, Jeff and the rest of the crew with us.  We were having a ball.  Di Fara's left us completely satisfied -- and, in reality, a little too satisfied.  We had started out with a plan to taste the pizza at Di Fara, but as it ended up, it became more of us eating the pizza.  I'm sure you can imagine.  When we left we couldn't just leave the rest of it there or, God forbid, throw it away!  So, with our foil-wrapped leftovers we moved on.

 

Another train ride, a change of lines in Manhattan and we were headed back to Brooklyn.  We popped up from under the streets not far from Roberta's and into what seemed like a set from the film The Warriors at first. Robertas is in an old warehouse district neighborhood called Bushwick,  that had seen better days, but is coming back with a young artist scene moving in and transforming this into a trendy neighborhood. I was telling Dave what Peter told me before we came to NYC.  He said Roberta's was like walking into the TV show Portlandia.  He didn't say it was like visiting Portland.  His point was far more metaphorical. There was a coming transformation from the "real" world to the two dimensional surreal world of Portlandia.  If you haven't seen it, you should.  My favorite episode is when the main character discovers Portland and describes it to a friend in LA as if it's a place you must enter through a portal in time!  Our first steps onto the street and I was starting to see what he meant.  When we turned the corner and almost walked right by Roberta's it again made more sense.

Here we were.  There's a sign that says Roberta's right there.  The exterior of the building looks more like a set from Gotham City with graffiti all over it and a sign that almost seems like they are hiding it.  It was time to go in, but we still had our leftover pizza from Di Fara's that we had hoped to give to someone along the way, but never ran into anyone who seemed interested.  We couldn't bring our Di Fara's into Roberta's!  So, we left it on a mailbox, hoping someone would pick it up.  We found out later that night that someone did indeed pick it up and our offering did not go to waste, but I'm getting a little ahead of myself here.

Having spent plenty of time in Portland, we had another laugh about Peter's description as we took our seat at one of the picnic tables inside.  (We love Portland, by the way.  We have some serious questing to do up there eventually.)  We all want a great place to sit and have a beer a great pizza and maybe, more importantly, just hang out with friends.  Roberta's is that place.  They are getting rave reviews about their pizza and food, but I think a major aspect of this place's success (being fairly off the beaten path), is it's qualities as a place where you can come and spend some time.  It doesn't feel like home -- it feels like Portlandia -- but it has a certain comfort factor as if you've come into this special place and found a hidden secret.  It feels local and full of regulars.  It was Saturday afternoon and it was busy and continued to get more busy.

Our first order of business after all this travel was to order a couple of beers.  When you're in Portland, I mean Brooklyn, do as they do.  We then ordered a couple of pies to "try" -- you know, we were there to do some tasting now in the second part of our three part mini pizza quest.  We chose the "Bee Sting" with Tomato, Mozz, Sopressata, chili, basil, honey, and another with Tomato, Mozz, Speck, and a sunny side up egg.  I think that was a special.

Delicious!  The dough is terrific and their ingredients balanced.  I loved the touch of honey on our Bee Sting and if there's an egg on a pizza on the menu, I'm going to order it.  It was "done to a turn!"  Two more beers.  Too much pizza now.  Did we have a third Beer?  I don't think so.  We were drunk -- pizza drunk!  We thought we may have gone too far and ended our quest a little early.  How could we make it back to Manhattan and get to Keste and order more pizza after all of this?!

It was time to go.  We managed to leave some pizza on the platters.  As we were walking out the door, I was looking back over my shoulder to grab a last look at the place.  We were, after all, about to leave Portlandia and step through the front door and back to our three dimensional selves.  I hadn't left yet and didn't want to leave the memories behind.  As I turned I heard a voice I recognized.  We passed each other but my back was turned.  I had only met this voice a few weeks ago, but it had to be him.

"Scott?"

It was!  The Scott Wiener of New York's -- Scott's Pizza Tours (www.scottspizzatours.com) had just walked in as we were walking out.  He's the pizza maniac I mentioned above.  I met Scott in Las Vegas at the Pizza Expo and had traded emails here and there.  If I'm a pizza nut, he is the tree.  He's off the charts pizza crazy.  Well, I turned Dave around and we went back to Portlandia to have another beer with Scott and his friends.  I think we may have had two.  Dave was ready to go get his camera and come back and start filming as Scott regaled us with Pizza lore. I think our favorite part was how he wrestled with having a slice of our left overs.  You see, he has a pizza slice log on his phone to track how many slices he eats in a week.  He gives pizza tours daily (Scott's Pizza Tours) after all, and without that log he would not be able to walk!  He took the slice anyway even though he was already over his weekly slice limit! Not only that, where is he hanging out in his free time?  Roberta's -- love it!!

 

 

This should have ended here.  We enjoyed another beer and some good conversation with Scott and his friends in the outside bar of Roberta's.  This should be part 2 and 3 of our mini pizza quest.  We started hours ago and had been eating great pizza and now had a few drinks in us.

 

 

 

 

 

It wasn't.  We said our good byes and walked a little slower out the door this time heading back to the city to visit Keste Pizzeria on Bleecker Street.  Dave hadn't been and this looked like our only chance.  As we left we saw that our offering of Di Fara slices still sat on the mail box.  We smiled and walked down the street thinking back on the two pizza stops we made in the last few hours.  We felt like time had stopped in Di Fara's Pizza World and we transcended space and time visiting Roberta's world.

This had been quite a day already.

But, it wasn't over.  In fact, it wouldn't really be over for some time, not until after we got back from our next stop - Keste Pizzeria.  I was just getting to my hotel room and I got a text.  It turns out that our offering had finally found it's proper home! See final photo, below -- ahh, Portlandia....

 

 

 

 
Peter's Blog, Dec. 22nd, 2012
Peter Reinhart

I'll be back in a day or so with the steps for making that amazing 4-minute rib eye in a wood fired oven (as promised), but wanted to get this up asap to let you know that Craftsy just opened their final sale of the year on all courses, including mine on Artisan Bread, but it ends Monday night, so it's just a two day affair.  The pizza course that I wrote about last week is almost ready but, as you already know, it will be a freebie (!!), so I'll let you know when it launches in January.  But for bargain prices on all their other courses, follow this link: www.craftsy.com/ext/PeterReinhart_holiday

Now, back to final Christmas shopping, baking, and wrapping.  I'll return in a day or so, right here on this same blog post, with the steak method. See you then.


Okay, I'm back and here's the steak technique. I'm sure this can be done in a regular oven, but not sure yet how to get one as hot a WFO. I'm thinking of trying this with my new Baking Steel, on the top shelf in my oven, just under the broiler, but that will be for another day and another posting. Here's how I do it in my Primavera 60 (sorry, no photos this round, but the next time I make these steaks I'll shoot the sequence and post them):

Fire up the oven so that it is as hot as I can get it -- at least 1,000 degrees everywhere.  I put a cast iron skillet in the oven at least  10 minutes before cooking the steaks, and let the pan get white hot -- yes, white. Meanwhile, I season 2"-thick rib eye steaks (I usually can fit two medium size or three small steaks in the pan, but they cook so fast that's it's okay to cook them one at a time if you prefer using a large piece). Use a liberal amount of freshly ground black pepper and kosher salt, and sprinkle both sides. After the salt and pepper goes on, mist both sides of the steak with olive oil spray (or brush the steaks with olive oil), and leave them on a plate, covered, for about 30 minutes to take off the chill.

When the time comes to cook, be sure to have thick oven mitts or pads on hand, a metal table to land the pan on (you can also use the oven ledge), tongs, and a timer set to two minutes. Pull the pan out of the oven to the ledge and drop in the steaks so that they lay flat and do not overlap each other.  Slide the pan back into the oven and turn on the timer. After two minutes, pull out the pan to the ledge, turn the steaks over with the tongs (they will be sizzling and already caramelizing) and return the pan to the oven. Re-set the timer for another 2 minutes, and put the pan back into the oven.  After these 2 minutes the steaks will be a perfect medium rare in the center so, if you want them more done that add an extra 30 seconds on each side (2 1/2 minutes per side instead of 2). Remove the steaks from the pan and place on serving plates. Let them sit for 8 to 10 minutes before serving to allow the juices to redistribute. In the meantime, you can use the same pan, even with the steak fat from the previous round, to cook another round.

By the way, you can cook burgers in the same manner -- but just one minute per side -- yes, one minute!

The steaks and burgers I've cooked in this manner are, without question, the best I've ever made or had --like buddder.  I'd love to hear from you if you've ever tried this or, perhaps, have a method you prefer. It will take some convincing to move me off of this method but I'm sure some of you have a few magical techniques of your own. When the weather gets nicer here, I'll fire up the Primavera and shoot some photos, but I have a feeling you can already visualize what these sizzling steaks will look like.

 
Are You Ready to Turn Pro, Part 4
John Arena

Note from Peter: We've had great response to this series by John Arena, which has been a true reality check for all of us. For those who haven't seen the previous three installments, or who may want to review them, they are all still here on the homepage (scroll down a bit), and also in the Guest Columns section. Thank you so much, John, for sharing your lifetime worth of experience!


Before we move on to the fun stuff, let’s take a look at just a bit more pizza math. Remember that in our hypothetical pizzeria we determined that we needed to make $2100 per day to succeed.  That doesn’t sound hard does it? Well, here’s the tricky part. The bulk of your sales are going to be concentrated in a 3-4 hour span. You will take in 75% of your money between 11:30 AM and 1 PM and from 6 PM to 8:30PM. That works out to about $400 per hour. Let’s say that you are making artisanal pizzas that sell for $13 each on average. You will have to make 30 pizzas every hour during peak times to get to $400 per hour. That means a pizza will have to go in to and come out of the oven every 2 minutes for 4 solid hours. This is why I stress the need for speed.
I know we have all heard the stories about old school pizza makers who were famous for making their customers wait, limited the numbers of pies they made each day, and would throw anyone who complained into the street.

Sorry folks, those days are over and here’s why: Many of the legendary pizza makers used old math to run their businesses. Now, I’m not suggesting that anyone does these things today, but here’s the way it used to work. First off most of the immigrants from Southern Italy came here to escape feudal conditions at home. Let’s just say that they had a healthy distrust of the government. They ran cash only businesses. Many of these places employed only family members or friends from the old country. This meant they paid little or no taxes and had no insurance costs. They paid their vendors out of pocket and kept two sets of books, or none at all. Their restaurants were built with no permits or plans, and most of their equipment was scavenged from the neighborhood or brought from their home kitchens.

You may be thinking, “How much difference could that possibly make?” Well, here is a small example: If sales tax in your area is 8% and you take in $500,000 but only declare $250,000 you are holding back $20,000 tax-free that goes right to your pocket. Many if not most, old time pizzerias worked that way, enabling owners to keep their prices down and still make a healthy profit: DON’T EVEN THINK ABOUT IT!!!

Let’s say you have your kids working for you “under the table.”  You pay no payroll taxes, workman's comp, overtime, or social security. You didn’t pay an architect and engineer to design your pizzeria. You are using non-commercial grade equipment that is cheaper to purchase. All of this sub-rosa activity is going to save you some money and enable you to sell your products for less than the legitimate operators, but, you won’t be able to sleep at night and you will get caught.
First off, in the modern era, 70% of your sales will be debit or credit cards that leave an electronic trail a mile wide. Your guests don’t carry cash anymore so you will lose them if you don’t accept cards. Second, your suppliers use easily audited invoices, the government can track your purchases and they know how that translates into sales. Third, Uncle Sam doesn’t trust restaurants; you will get audited at some point and it is simple to place an auditor in your restaurant to track sales for a day. They will then multiply that by the number of days you are open and assume that is your annual sales. Guess what? They will pick the busiest day of the week and calculate your back taxes based on that number. If you can’t pay, they will lock your doors, auction off your equipment, and you will owe them the balance. You will lose everything and could even go to jail.

There are many other ways that old time operators made the math work for them, not the least of which is that they overcame obstacles with an unbelievable work ethic. They often sacrificed to buy the buildings they were located in and their descendants are benefiting from to this day. In addition these landmark places paid off their investment decades ago so their financial picture is quite different from what yours will be. They rarely upgrade their facilities and invest little more than what it takes to keep the equipment running each year.

Of course there are still some artisans who seem to be uncompromising and are held up as role models of what we would like our lives as pizza entrepreneurs to be. So, let me make this clear: YOU ARE NOT DOM DEMARCO! The truth is even Dom DeMarco wasn’t Dom DeMarco for the first 40 years that he was in business. Until Dom was discovered by some powerhouse food journalists, DiFara’s was a simple neighborhood pizzeria and Dom was no more famous or highly regarded than any number of hard working Brooklyn pizza guys who labored in anonymity banging out great pies all day long. After decades of back breaking work Dom has finally reached a point where his talent is recognized. The plain truth is that, unlike DiFara’s, you will not be able to charge $5 for a slice of cheese pizza and that makes all of the difference in the world. At that price an 18-inch cheese pie is bringing in $40! With a food cost that is probably around 12% and, doing much of the work himself, Dom and a few others like him are not subject to the same economic realities that you will face as a start up operator.

Now that we have some of the basic mathematical realities out of the way we can begin to explore the development of your pizzeria. But that will be in the next installment.

 
Peter's Blog, December 14th, 2012
Peter Reinhart

I  just got back from Denver where I had the great joy and privilege to film a mini pizza course for Craftsy called, "Perfect Pizza at Home."  As I mentioned in a previous post, this is going to be offered in January, by Craftsy, to the world for free!! (My bread course, on the other hand, sells for $39.95 -- or $19.95 if you sign up via the special link they gave me for our PQ followers: www.craftsy.com/artisanbread -- so the pizza course giveaway is quite a deal, a steal actually; steal, or steel, is today's motif, as you will soon see.)  Anyway, I'll have a lot more on the pizza course and on Craftsy next month, when I get the word that it's available.

At the wrap party afterwards, we gathered at Basta, in Boulder, for a nice reunion with Kelly Whitaker and his whole team of pizzaiolos and talented cooks. As you you have seen, and will continue to see over the next few months in the Basta webisodes, this is a very special place and I was pleased to be able to to bring my new friends from Craftsy over to meet Kelly, as well as to meet Joseph Pergolizzi (founder of The Fire Within, whose mobile wood fired ovens you've seen featured on many of our instructional videos), and my friend and artisan bread baker extraordinaire, Andy Clark, of Udi's Breads, who joined us for the celebration. (I will post some photos as soon as I gather them.)

But, as I said, I'm home again and I promised to comment on the new Baking Steel, which arrived just before I left for Denver and which I tested with a dough ball from my freezer stash a few hours before I flew out. As you may recall, Adam A. wrote in a "comment" to a previous Peter's Blog, raving about his Baking Steel, so I called the foundry where it's made, Stoughton Steel, and spoke with Andris Lagsdin's dad (and the owner of the steel mill and the proud papa of the inventor of this new, innovative tool). He said, "What can I tell you, I'm no cook but my son is and ever since he came up with this they're selling like crazy!"  An hour later, Andris, the inventor himself, called me and we had a great chat about the Steel, which was inspired by his love of cooking, both professional and at home, and his interest in the new "modernist cuisine" as described in the recent amazing books by Nathan Myhrvold as well as all the molecular gastronomy chefs like Ferran Adria, Jose Andres, Grant Achatz, and others. He combined his food and his steel knowledge and fabricated this simple, but beautiful, slab of steel that is now destined to be the next big thing among pizza freaks as well as serious cooks of all types.

My oven typically takes about seven minutes to bake a pizza, using a one-inch thick ceramic baking stone. With the steel, the pizza was ready in five minutes and, just like Adam A. reported, perfectly baked, top and bottom, with superb caramelization. The faster bake time allowed the dough to be both crisp and moist, just the way I (and most of us) like it. I have to admit, I was totally impressed and the Steel now sits proudly in my oven, waiting for me to test it out on other foods. I'm particularly curious to see how it will do with a rib eye steak, ever since the benchmark of my "four minute steak," cooked in my Primavera 60 wood-fired oven (yes, a shameless plug for our friends at Forno Bravo) -- the best steak I ever made. I posted about this last year -- it's somewhere in the Peter's Blog archives but, if anyone wants me to repeat the method I'll post it again over the holidays -- just let me know in the Comments section below.  If the Steel can get me close to that in a home oven I'll do back flips, so stay tuned.

When mine arrived, it came with a very cool carrying case, which I suggest you also purchase, for both it's functionality and its sweet design. (Ever since I read Walter Isaacson's bio on Steve Jobs I've become obsessed with Job's brilliant insight and execution of the merging of these two aspects, form and function; the Baking Steel and it's case is kind of like the I-Pad of baking platforms -- very Apple-like.) Here's an excerpt from an e-mail I received from Andris for those of you who want to check this out.

Currently, our website has the Baking Steel listed at $72 and you can purchase the case and steel together for $102. These are both introductory prices.  After the first of the year the price may tweak up a little bit.  Likely to $79 & $109. This price includes delivery anywhere in the U.S. We charge a flat rate of $15.00 to Canada.  Anywhere else in the world we are charging freight.  Our website is www.bakingsteel.com and orders can be placed online. 

The material used to make the Steel is A36 low carbon.  This is the same material you see your local diners use on their griddles for eggs, pancakes etc.  So yes, the options are plentiful.  Likely a nice searing steel for outdoor grills as well.  We also sell a cleaning brick for the Baking Steel -- it is a nice way to keep the steel clean.

 

I'll try to get some photos up soon -- after all, I just got home but wanted to get this news out asap. If any of you already have a Baking Steel and want to send us your own reviews, that would be wonderful.  Congratulations to Andris Lagsdin (and his dad!) for coming up with what may be a game-changing tool for many of us. Hey, it may not be too late for some of you to get one, or give one, for Christmas!!

More soon....

Peter

PS I nearly forgot to mention that when you receive your Steel, it comes with a recipe for NY-Style Pizza Dough by noted food blogger Kenji Lopez-Alt.  I thought the recipe looked familiar so I was pleased to discover that on his blog, Kenji was generous in sharing the credit (he also dd a nice job of tweaking the original, to make it his own, as I advise you all to do as you zero in on your own recipes). Thanks Kenji!  Here's what he wrote: Luckily for me, there's already a pretty fantastic recipe for New York style pizza dough out there in Peter Reinhart's American Pie, a new classic on pizza, which if you don't already own, you should. His method is to mix together the flour, yeast, salt, sugar, olive oil, and warm water in the bowl of a stand mixer, knead it slowly for a couple minutes, then allow it to rest for a few minutes in a step called an autolyse.  Autolysis allows time for flour to absorb water, and for the gluten-forming proteins to shorten themselves through enzymatic action, allowing them to be more easily aligned and stretched with subsequent mixing.

 
Are You Ready to Turn Pro? Part 3
John Arena

OK, so you have considered the physical challenges and demands of becoming a pizza professional. You are confident that you want to transition from being a great amateur to becoming a successful pizza operator. Allow me to introduce you to your new best friend…MATH!
I know that many of you have a dream of escaping from the mundane business world and earning a living as a pizza artisan. Math may not be why you want to open a pizzeria, but my mission is to keep your pizza dream from becoming a nightmare. If you intend to stay in business math is what’s going to keep the doors open and the lights turned on. Math is the spot where art and commerce meet. Having numbers that work is just as important as having the right equipment and recipes.

So let’s get started with some basics. Please keep in mind that although the numbers may change slightly from place to place, this is information based on what is common in our industry, so please don’t make the fatal mistake of thinking you are going to circumvent the economic realities.
Rule number 1: Everything starts with the rent. No matter how much money you take in you cannot overcome a bad real estate deal. To be safe, your rent should not be higher than about 8% of your projected sales. That means that if your rent is $5,000 per month you would have to take in about $63,000 per month to make a decent profit in your pizzeria.  At that rate you are going to have to ring up about $2100 per day.  It also means you will have to be open 7 days per week. My motto is “Every day that you pay rent you should be generating sales”. If you closed 4 days per month you would have to make up that $8400 in the remaining 26 days and there are no guarantees.  I know a lot of the old timers closed on Mondays, but the fact is they did a lot of things that you will not be able to do in the modern world (we will get into that in the next installment).

Rule number 2: If you are starting with a raw space you should plan on spending about $200 per square foot on your build out. Sure you can try to get by cheaper but factoring in fixtures, furniture, equipment and signage this is about right. Remember that a pizzeria is a special use project that requires costly plumbing, venting and electrical work that is usually not provided by the landlord. The days of having your brother-in- law “who’s a pretty handy guy” building your restaurant are over. Local health and building codes are getting stricter as municipalities run out of money and seek revenue from licensing and fines.

Let’s review our math:
Rent is $5000 per month
Construction investment is $200 per foot. Let’s say that your restaurant is 2000 sq ft. That means it costs $400,000 to build.
Assuming that you are getting that 63k per month in sales you are at about 750k in annual sales. $100,000 per year in profit will give you a 25% return on investment. You would need a 13% bottom line to make $100,000 on $750,000 in sales. Can you do that? Under the right circumstances the answers is yes, but it won’t be as easy as you think, so here is the most important lesson of the day and it addresses the most common mistake that I see beginning entrepreneurs make: Never base your price structure on what your competitors are selling their products for! Their costs and financial considerations have nothing to do with your business.  Your prices must be based on what it costs to make your pizza, including food cost, labor, rent, utilities, insurance, taxes, legal expenses, and that 13% you need at the bottom. Always keep in mind that your goal is to have a business, not just buy yourself a job.

This math stuff may not be what is calling you to a career in pizza, but understanding it and preparing yourself will make it a lot easier for you to experience and enjoy the more artisanal aspects of the journey.
Stay tuned for Part 4....

 
Garden Cherry Tomato Pizza
Brad English

I was working in New York City this summer and went on some great little pizza quests.  When I got home, I found that a group of volunteer cherry tomato plants were about ready to burst in my back yard. I decided that things had gotten out of control, as the plants were crawling across my patio and it was time to clean things up. First, I had to pluck all of this juicy fruit from the vines --  it was quite a gift!  The seeds for these these plants must have drifted over from the neighbors and didn't get much help from me but, apparently, where they landed, in a little planter cut out of my patio, was a near perfect environment for them.  I can't wait to replant, or watch these volunteers show up again.

But what to do with all of these tomatoes?  Well, I would certainly make a salad.  What else could I possibly do?  Ah, pizza time!

When I decide to make pizza, I generally think of what I want to do and then often go wander around the grocery store to see if anything inspires me.  Just looking at these tomatoes, I realized that my inspiration for making pizza this day was right here in my backyard.  As you can see from the photos, my guest tomato plants gave up quite a bit of gorgeous fruit.

I decided that my first pizza of the day would be totally about the tomatoes.  In fact, it was going to be a tomato pizza -- with no meat products! This was going to be a simple celebration of what the garden offered to me.

 

Garden Tomato Pizza

- Peter's Classic Neo-Neopolitan Dough *Link

- Peter's Herbed Oil *Link

- Cherry tomatoes -- cut in half

- Ball of Burrata, or Fresh Mozzarella

- Green Onions - Grilled

- Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

- Balsamic Vinegar

 

 

The Prep:

Make the Herb Oil ahead of time - link to recipe above

Drizzle a little of the Herb Oil onto your green onions and throw them on the grill.  Once they are softened and a little charred pull them off.  Let them cool a little and chop them up and set aside.

 

 

 

The Pizza:

Preheat your oven to the highest temperature, about 550 degrees if possible, for at least an hour prior to cooking to make sure to get your pizza stone up to temperature.

Stretch out your dough and drizzle a little of the Herb Oil over the top.

Place the cherry tomatoes around the dough - mostly cut side down.  I feel like they steam and hold more of their moisture this way.  Some will roll over when you slide it in the oven, and as you can see, I also threw a few on that sit cut side up as well.  This is not science!

Tear up pieces of the cheese and place them around the pizza.  Try to imagine how the cheese will melt and blend together with the other ingredients to gauge how much and where you want to place the pieces.

 

Time for some heat, so, into the oven….

My oven was as hot as it could get.  You can see the charred tomatoes.  This pizza looked good going in but, hey, it looks good right out of the oven too.

Add the shredded Parmesan, to taste.

Drizzle with a little balsamic vinegar.

 

This pizza looks good enough to eat cold.  It was a great way to celebrate the gift of my fresh tomatoes, this inadvertent gift from my neighbors.  The sweet bursts of flavor from the tomatoes, along with the more earthy onions and amazingly creamy burrata cheese really hit the spot.  This pizza was balanced, fresh, and delicious!  And, then, as a topper, you also get that sweet twang from the balsamic vinegar, which perfectly ties all the flavors together -- Delish!!

Enjoy...

 

 

 

 
More About Coffee and Obsession at Basta
Peter Reinhart

In this, the second in our newest webisode series, we continue our conversation with Kelly Whitaker, chef/partner at Basta in Boulder, CO.  You'll notice a few breakaway shots to some of his menu items, such as a sous vide short rib dish that is phenomenal, cooked under pressure at a precise temperature for 48 to 72 hours, and then fire-charred just before serving. We will have a whole episode on this dish in the future, but I mention it because, as you can see here, beginning with our initial discussion on coffee and then beyond, what we are exploring with Kelly is his whole food sensibility, his ethic and culinary worldview, and how his attention to detail carries over into all aspects of the Basta experience.

We're all seeing the appearance of more and more culinary artists, like Kelly, around the country (and world), and when you peel back the curtain, it becomes obvious that a lot more than cooking is taking place in their world. Years of training, mentoring and being mentored, paying ones dues, finding ingredients produced by kindred spirits -- the soul of a chef is a complex thing that we, as customers, usually only get to experience in the form of its final manifestation, the food. So, over the next few months, little by little, we will, in fact, be peeling back the curtain and take you inside the process, deeper into our shared quest to scratch the itch beneath the itch that burns within us all.

 

 
Peter's Blog: Happy Thanksgiving!
Peter Reinhart

Here it is, Thanksgiving week, which means everything will feel like one long weekend till Chanukah and Christmas. Scary how fast that time goes.  But, to help you enjoy the time, we'll post a few new pieces including the next installment in our Basta webisode series, which I hope to post on Thanksgiving Day.  Also, we'll soon be posting the next installment in John Arena's series on what it takes to go pizza professional. And Brad English has promised us more on his NYC pizza quest adventures as well as new variations of his latest fire roasted tomato pizza experiments. So keep checking back.

But, till then, let me address a few questions that came in after my last Peter's Blog (you can refer back to the comments section in that post, further down this page, for the actual questions):

--What about the new steel pizza plate compared to a baking stone? Yes, this is the latest rage, fueled by the modernist cuisine movement whose adherents, like us, are ever questing for the holy grail of everything culinary (I'll riff about this "Holy Grail" imagery in a future posting, but let me just say that I have a theory that every person has a deep, unconscious quest -- trying to become conscious which, when it happens we call "enlightenment" --  for the Holy Grail that exists inside us, which is why the whole concept of quest is so powerful -- but let's save that for sometime closer to Christmas). Anyway, the short answer to the question is, yes, I have heard great things about this steel plate but I haven't yet tried it. From a functional sense, anything that can serve as a thermal mass should work and, obviously, this new steel plate seems to gather and radiate heat even better, perhaps, than stone. Can we get some testimonials from those of you who have tried it? I'll chime in too as soon a I can get my hands on one, but I do have a lot of confidence in Nathan Myhrvold and his modernist friends so I'm guessing that this is going to be a winner of a tool.

--Pivetti -00- Flour vs. King Arthur bread flour: To each his own -- I'm partial to American bread flour rather than the super soft Italian Double Zero's, but that's only when I have a choice. I'm also happy when I can get a Vera Pizza Napoletana on any high quality -00- Italian flour dough when made with love and care and in a properly hot oven.  I take no sides and judge no one for their choices: there are many paths up the pizza mountain and the only goal is joy. Our work here is to help identify the tools and methods that increase the odds of a joyful, memorable outcome. We're heard from die-hard proponents of every style and I honor them all, when done in a way that respects the craft. As long as the flour is unbleached and milled by a reputable miller known for consistency, I think joy can be found when proper fermentation and technique are applied.

--Antico Forno at Campo de Fiori: Yes, I love that simple pizza, made in only two styles, red (sauce only) and white (olive oil, salt, and a sprinkle of herbs).  They are baked in long planks, about 7 feet long, and then you just hold your hands open to the size of the piece you want and the girl at the counter whacks off a chunk, weighs it, and charges accordingly. I wrote about this in "American Pie" and the best lesson for me in all of it was how utterly satisfying pizza is even when it's just crust, when it's made right. Again, to return to the theme above, it delivers great joy and is memorable. The hunk I bought never made it back it to my hotel room because I couldn't stop eating it as I walked (I did manage to save a small piece for my wife, but had to bring her back later for another to make up for having already eaten most of her portion). Anyone who goes to Rome should go there, and hold your hands very wide apart when you order.

--Wood-fired pizza classes on Craftsy: It was suggested that I film some videos on wood-fired baking as part of my Craftsy video instructionals. Well, there's good news and bad news regarding this.  First the bad news: The number of current owners of wood-fired ovens probably precludes doing this series in the near future for Craftsy, which requires a large audience to make the costs work. However, anything is possible so I wouldn't rule it out, especially in light of the following good news: I am going to film a mini-instructional course for Craftsy on "pizza making at home," and it should be available to the general public in just a few months.  And here's the best news: it's going to be free!  I will have more details when I return from our filming session in a few weeks but I'm very excited about this project and am extremely grateful to the folks at Craftsy for giving me the opportunity to put some of our techniques and recipes on video where everyone can access them. Who knows, if the response is strong, maybe they will consider doing another one on wood-fired baking.  But don't forget, we also have a number of videos right here at Pizza Quest on baking in a wood-fired oven, so just click into the Instructionals section for those. And don't forget to check out the Forno Bravo website for lots of useful wood-fired cooking information and videos.

Okay, enough for now. I have to go dry-brine my turkey. Have a joyful, memorable Thanksgiving and check back on Thursday for the next webisode installment. And keep those questions and comments coming in too! In gratitude,

Peter

 

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Pizza Quest is a site dedicated to the exploration of artisanship in all forms, wherever we find it, but especially through the literal and metaphorical image of pizza. As we share our own quest for the perfect pizza we invite all of you to join us and share your journeys too. We have discovered that you never know what engaging roads and side paths will reveal themselves on this quest, but we do know that there are many kindred spirits out there, passionate artisans, doing all sorts of amazing things. These are the stories we want to discover, and we invite you to jump on the proverbial bus and join us on this, our never ending pizza quest.

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